NICE AND QUIET

Guimaras Island, despite the recent assault on its maritime resources courtesy of one oil tanker and an indecisive captain (allegedly), remains idyllic, calm and beautiful. Though its terrain does not compare to my first love - Bukidnon, the fact that this is home to the world's sweetest mangoes (and to so much more, siempre!) is enough reason to see it.

The pump boat trip from Iloilo was a cool 15 minutes (the fare was something like Php 18 per person? I forgot na) and despite the crest-to-crest sailing (those weak of heart can conveniently faint), the beauty of the island looming on the horizon simply takes the breath away.

I am happy for the rare chance to visit it. Sorry for the noisy photo, too.

AND FOREVER HOLD YOUR PEACE

After the eating comes death. Seriously! We visited a local cemetery on Guimaras Island. This one is in Barangay Cabalagman, town of Nueva Valencia, Guimaras Island. It is said the local cemeteries say a lot about local culture. It seems that most people's names (or last names) around here start with the letter G. Something to do with the island's name starting with the same letter. Thanks for the info, BC.

To let. Any takers?

What better way to rest than lie down beside the sea? Beats any manicured garden anytime.

MOUNT CARMEL MONASTERY, JARO

We visited the Mount Carmel Monastery in Jaro. Founded in 1923, this is the first Carmel in the Philippines. The Carmelites were the last major group to arrive here among all religious congregations in the Philippines considering that the Jesuits, Augustinians, Dominicans and the Franciscans already had a presence since the 16th century.

Four French nuns arrived from the monastery in Hue, Vietnam and established fort here in Jaro. The special link to St. Therese of the Child Jesus, whose Feast Day was on the same day I visited the monastery, can be traced to the nuns who came from Hue. The Hue monastery was established by nuns from the very monastery where Therese came from - Liseiux, France.

I collected some rose petals for my Mom, left a prayer request and returned to the city to hear Mass at the Jaro Cathedral.

THE LONE RED SLIPPER

Was walking the streets of Iloilo City when I chanced upon this lone red slipper. I wonder where the other pair is now.

A GREAT FIND: BREAKTHROUGH, ILOILO CITY

The Philippines is all about food, food, food! Anywhere you go, one of the best ways to understand and know a place better is through local food. Iloilo will, in no way, be second best to Bacolod when it comes to feasts! Palaban ang Lola mo, 'ika nga!


Breakthrough Resto in Villa, Iloilo City. This is just around 10 minutes away from the city center. You can take a jeep.

Managat or Red Snapper. As the practice in the Visayas, pick a fresh fish and inform the staff how you want it cooked. Usually they make two viands out of one fish.

Kaldereta (stewed goat meat) and tuna flakes (for tuna sisig).

Catfish or hito. Oily coat is released by the fish during broiling. Didn't order this as this is pretty common in Pampanga where i grew up.

Airy and wide. Ventilation is provided by large open areas and the beach beside the resto.

The world is an oyster. Only Php 35 / order. A plate is one order and it has 20-25 oysters in it. Not bad, huh. In Manila, 10 pieces would sell for Php 150 up depending on the variety.

The pearl of the orient. In this case, the real jewel is not the pearl but the meat! None of the sea taste we all hate (but love to smother in lemon or calamansi). This meat is sweet, which signifies only one thing - freshness.

Broiled managat. An order of a whole fish is cooked in 2 different ways: broiled and made into soup (See below).

Sinigang sa Batuan. Batuan is that green fruit they use to make the soup sour. In other parts of the country, we either use tamarind (sampalok), kamias or guava. See that sliver of fish fat? Yummy!

Baked clams. Garlic-y and succulent! Wait, is that human hair?!

Aligue rice. Hot, moist rice mixed with crab fat!

Total bill: Php 518.00 (all inclusive except tip)

Fare: Php 10.00 (one-way)

Holding tanks.

Losbters. Too pretty to eat.

Coconut Crab (Birgus latro). Too large and scary! They are held in cages because they drown in water. They have what we call a brachiostegal lung - a cross between gills (hardly used) and lungs. They live in burrows underground and feed on anything organic - fruits, leaves, dead animals. Widely available in the Pacific and is regarded as a terrestrial hermit crab.

Crabby crabs. Congregating where there is water movement.

Clammy clams. Asleep, with no idea of their future.

PASALUBONG: STREET CAKES (JARO)

I have no great fear of street food. I always take the chance of finding out how street food taste like. Wherever there is a queue or a crowd, I always try to find out what the commotion is all about. You can say that this is a quintessential Filipino trait - to be perpetually curious.

In Jaro, I chanced upon a row of shops on the street selling something in brown paper bags. We walked past them, but I just couldn't contain my curiousity and went back to one and asked what was inside. A-ha! Miniature rice cakes or bibingka! At Php 20 per bag with around 10 cakes, it was a steal. The cakes were tasty, redolent of coconut milk. It was worth the risk.


The cakes are cooked under a stack of burning wood and hot ash.

Miniature bibingka delights in a paper bag!

JARO CATHEDRAL, ILOILO CITY

The Jaro Cathedral. Commissioned in 1874, seat of the Archbisporic of Western Visayas.

The Jaro Belfry. Destr0yed in the 1948 earthquake but is now restored. It is one of the few belfries in the Philippines that is separate from the main church building.

Our Lady of Candles. Said to be miraculous, her Feast Day is on February 2. Her statue looks very medieval, don't you think?

Detail. One of the chandeliers that line the nave.

A WHARF BEAUTY

After getting saturated with most things Bacolod, we took a fast craft to get to the other side of Negros Island where Iloilo is. The oldest of Philippine cities like Cebu almost always have dilapiated, abandoned, shell remnants of buildings (or what used to be buildings) near their ports, piers or wharves. Iloilo is no exception. This must have been used as a warehouse in its heydey.


Detail. Fleur-de-lis motifs.

Chinese characters are still etched on the surface of the concrete. The date is 1925. I noticed that most buildings around Plaza Libertad have dates on them and that most were erected in the 1920's.

PENDY'S, BACOLOD CITY

Everything here is proudly Philippine.

I read about Pendy's in discussion threads on the net. It is housed in an unassuming white box of a building whose main entrance is found after going around half of the whole thing. Upon entrance, wowowee! It's like a blast from the old world: cakes and pastries line their shelves (prune cakes, everything you've read in European novels - they have it here). I bought napoleones and that's it. As we were in a rush to get to the wharf, I only had time to peruse the goodies and take photos. The staff were very friendly and are obviously bursting with pride at working for such a distinguished restaurant that already is part and parcel of Bacolod's history. The place is along Lacson Avenue. You might miss it if you're not looking hard enough.

The main dining area. Notice the clean lines. The vertical blocks add height to the tables, and yellow goes very well with white walls and wooden elements like the chairs and door frames.

Bags and bags of merengue. Another childhood favorite.

The other dining area. Exposed trusses are painted white and add to the charm. It's a mixture of old and new. The chairs are of heavy metal. The lamps add to the overall appeal.

The filigree-like woodwork is something we usually see hanging downwards from posts in old houses. Here at Pendy's, they find new lives as dividers.

SAN SEBASTIAN CATHEDRAL, BACOLOD CITY